Subversive Sewer











{June 9, 2011}   Major problem with vogue 8706

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I really need help. I’m making vogue 8706 and piece #2 is giving me a problem. First of all, I think the piece is off grain because it won’t fold in half. At all. Second, if you look at the picture, I put a pin by the instructions that I’m on. As you can see, the piece #2 that I cut doesn’t reach to the right side edge. I cut this straight from the envelope with no alterations. I don’t know what to do! Really hoping one of you can help me.

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Sue says:

I can’t make your picture any larger so it’s really hard to see what you are trying to do but I’m wondering …. are you supposed to ease one part to another and that’s why they are not equal in length? Sorry I can’t be more help.



Jeannine says:

Is the fabric a woven or a knit?



Jeannine says:

Alrighty. πŸ™‚

First. If you have any leftover fabric, I’d recut piece #2. Fold your fabric in half on the grain and fiddle with it until it lays properly. Mark the fold with pins, open it up and use the markings as your grainline for cutting out your new piece. That should solve the “won’t fold in half at all” issue. If you don’t have anymore fabric, perhaps try lining up the raw edges of your existing piece and then steaming the fold to relax it into place. Don’t press it; just hover the iron over the fold, giving it steam bursts and letting the fibers fall into place. Occasionally move the iron out of the way and finger press the fold down. I don’t know what your fabric content is, but this method will work better on natural fibers (including rayon, even though it’s not technically a natural). For synthetics like polyester, try spritzing the fabric first with a 3:1water/vinegar solution before steaming. That sometimes helps. The vinegar smell will disappear once it dries.

Before I can help (IF I can help) with the rest, I need to know at what points the dress front and piece #2 are sewn together. πŸ™‚



Liz says:

Omigosh, that’s a horrible situation! It could very well be the pattern. I recently threw a last fall issue Vogue pattern in the recycle bin because one of the pieces was totally wrong and there was no way it would sew to it’s other piece. Try laying out your pattern pieces as they are to be sewn and see if they would really work. With McVoguericks I have started always assuming it is the pattern that is wrong, not me.



Judy says:

I have just begun this dress. I think the piece you mention is incorrectly drafted. It is supposed to be one piece that is both part of the bodice and a self-facing for it: the self-facing should be a mirror image of the bodice, and it isn’t. If you have enough fabric, re-draft this piece so that the self-facing is identical to the bodice. It will then lie flat. I don’t know why other sewists haven’t mentioned an error in this piece–maybe only some of the patterns have this problem?



Unfortunately, I’m out of fabric. I’ll check if hancock has any more.



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