Subversive Sewer











{May 1, 2010}   Another paper jacket for your perusal

Well, I got ambitious.  Here’s the jacket:

The center front is obviously nowhere near my center front.  My shoulders seem REALLY narrow.  See any other issues?

Here’s a side view.  You might be able to see the bust point on the side of my boob; I don’t think it belongs there.  I can see the forward shoulder.  The front is shorter than the back, possibly due to the poor bust fit.  What else is wrong?

Here’s a side view with my arm up, in case that helps.

And the back.  This does not reach my center back, and it’s REALLY bad at the bottom.  I don’t know where to start here.

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Sue says:

Hi, I’m not really sure of the pattern you are using but I think you may need to pull up the shoulder to meet your neck, it seems to be a long way away. Also remember you have a seam allowance included so you will need to pull it right up close to your neck. Unless the top is very, very wide-necked.
That may change a few other things in how the jacket fits as well.
Yes it does look like your bust point is lower than what’s shown on the pattern. Do you have the Fit for Real People book by Palmer/Pletsch? It shows you in there how to adjust a bust point on the pattern. Also there is a website called Perfect Sew & Fit where an accredited Palmer/Pletsch lady has a forum specifically for helping those of us who are finding it difficult to fit our bodies. It’s free too. May be worth checking out. My mum and I have joined.
You are going to have to add width at the waist and hips but it’s easier to do that than to try and adjust the neck/shoulder area.



angie.a says:

Ok wait, I can help with this one! haha!

Shoulder: I’m not sure but I *think* the shoulder is falling off just because you don’t have enough circumference all around. Once the b/w/h fits and the CF/CB are in the right place, the neck should scoot in against your neck better. So I’d worry about circumference first, and messing with shoulder later (it may still be too wide, but not as much as you think.)

Bust point: hahaha! No, I don’t think it should be on the side like that. you crack me up. Get the width for the jacket front right and then you can move the bust point. I’m not very good with that on princess seams so someone else will happen along I’m sure.

Back: The reason the low back is all jacked up like that is because the bust is pulling for more room and the whole lower front is swinging forward (with your arm down I’m sure the side seam swings forward too). It’s my round belly that makes it do this, so I’m familiar with this one, haha! But the upper back/neck area is going to fit your chest (or close) once you get the rest of the circumference right, so it looks better (i.e. has nearly enough room if not plenty).

I would do pivot & slide (because that’s my favorite) to add the amount needed for circumference at the bust/waist/hips but keep the neck/shoulders. Do you normally do a FBA? You could add extra at the seams for “insurance” too, to fine tune things. Flat measure the jacket & then compare to you too. That’s usually an eye opener for me, haha!



Carol says:

Because the side seam is being pulled forward, you can’t see if the back is correct or not. I would go ahead and do the FBA and then move the bust point as needed afterwards. Then you should be able to see what you need to do to the back. Yes, I know FFRP says to fit the back first, but personally, I can never see what I need to do to the back until I make my adjustments to the front.



Gigi says:

I agree with what everyone else has said so far. You can definitely unpin the side seam below the waist during fitting. That way you can get everything else taken care of before you see what you’ll need to add. I know it’s not fun at first but it does get easier and it’s so worth the effort!



Kathi G says:

I noticed in the pictures that your right shoulder is much higher than your left. Maybe since it is only on half your body you unconsciously held your should up to keep the pattern from sliding off. I’d make a muslin to get a better idea of the true fit.



For the back, as the upper back doesn’t meet your CB you’ll need a wide back adjustment ahich will automatically add width. The paper crinkling to the side looks like a swayback could be pinched out in the tissue. Put on a chain necklace and have a look if you should do a HRB while you’re at it. It takes just two minutes to do. Next do the FS. Back issues have to come first, then the front.
You need a FBA and it will automatically lower the bust point, so don’t alter for that yet. To be honest a FBA on a shoulder princess will take a couple extra steps because you make the FBA on the side front, rotate the dart from the side to point towards the CF, then add width at the CF that’s exactly the sam width as the dart you just rotated. I stay away from shoulder princess seams for that very reason 🙂 But, you know–you could just sew a horizontal dart as usual in the side panel. I saw that on lots of Neue Mode jackets. Then you skip all of that extra work and get a design feature. You’ll need to lengthen the front panel to match afterward, which will bring it down too. Good luck!



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