Subversive Sewer











{August 6, 2009}   Can you help with a FBA?

OK, I’m making a tunic dress (sorry can’t remember the pattern, but it’s a Simplicity Cynthia Rowley pattern), and I made a muslin.  (See, I’m getting smarter!)  I took these pictures of it:

002005I do know that the wrinkles in back are because it’s too tight there, so I cut it up the sides and then determined that I need to add 3″ total.  I seemed to fix the sloping shoulder issue my making a deeper seam allowance toward the edge of a shoulder seam.  However, I need a FBA.  I think I feel confident enough to enlarge the dart, but the big question is how much?  I’m really hoping one of you can help me with this!  I’ve got some Ralph Lauren sateen from Fabric.com waiting!

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sarah c says:

i have a book that says increase it 3/8 in for a C, 3/4in for a D, and 1 1/4in for a DD cup.
hope this helps



dana says:

I just was reading about this one of the PR boards the other day (sorry I can’t remember which topic) and Debbie Cook said that she (I think this is correct) lines up the side seam and then measures the difference between the CF on her body and the CF on the pattern. That’s the amount of adjustment she makes. I just tried it on one of my patterns, but it won’t be sewn for awhile.



Yes, that’s what I do (what Dana wrote).

I think you really need to make a horizontal tuck across the whole pattern (front and back) between shoulder and waist. You are not as tall as most patterns are drafted for, which is why the fabric is pooling at your waist. You can’t see the need for this tuck in the front because your bust is filling out the space. An FBA would give you the length back that you need, as well as more depth for the girls.



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