Subversive Sewer

{June 1, 2009}   What I’ve been up to

I realized today that I haven’t posted in 2 weeks!  That’s not going to further my goal of getting more readers!

I’ll start with my possible wadder from last weekend, Butterick 5318:

I like to call this the “52 pleat dress.”  Between the front waist and sleeves, there are 52 pleats!  While I figured if I marked them and took my time, it would be fine, what I failed to recognize was that 52 pleats means a lot of room for error.  You’ll see the results of that in the photo below.


Note the front waist.  Yep, it’s pinned, not sewn.  That’s because it’s way too big for the skirt section it’s supposed to be attached to.  In addition, I need to find out how not to stretch out a neckline of a knit garment!!  This is getting really old.  I tried to salvage it with clear elastic, but it doesn’t look so hot.

So, despite its rating as easy, I’ve have to disagree.


adrienne says:

ACK! That sucks! I have that pattern in my stash…I think it will live it’s life there.

Christy S says:

I can see that many pleats being a problem. I freak out after 5 of them. As for the skirt of dress, how about taking in the side seams and making your pleats shallower? Either that or distributing some of that fullness over the rest of the skirt area using easing?? Just some thoughts. As for your neckline, you are on the right track. Clear elastic will help keep it in shape. You just have to be careful not to stretch your fabric while you are sewing especially if you aren’t using a walking foot. Have you tried hovering the iron over the neckline and giving some bursts of steam to see if the knit will “shrink” back into shape?

I am glad that I decided not to get that pattern. That’s a lot of pleats. Oh, I just had another thought — you can also cover the pleats to gathering.

LauraM62 says:

I use to have more problems with stretching out my knit fabrics, I’m not sure what was the final deal. I always test my fabric, reducing tension, and stitch count. On some fabric I use a very narrow single-step zig/zag. I have found that the serger works great on some seams but not something like the neckline. I am leary of too much top-stitching, trying to keep it simple, nice & easy stitching. And the final like someone else mentioned is plenty of steam bursts to stretch it back into shape.

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