Subversive Sewer











{February 5, 2009}   Vogue 8480: the muslin

I continue to work on Vogue 8480… tonite after work I had some time to myself so I sewed the muslin.  After hearing experts like Ann tell me over and over (yes, she is talking directly to me) to make a muslin first, I finally listened.  Here are some scary pictures of it.  I’m hoping someone who knows about fitting will look at these and tell me if it looks right.  So far I have my usual problem of tightness in the upper arm and underarm when I raise my arms.

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Katharine in Brussels says:

Aha, are you talking about tightness across the back when you put your arms up or forward (like you were driving)? It looks like it in the 5th picture down. If so, then that’s s simple broad back adjustment. Draw a line parallel to the grainline that begins anywhere in the shoulder and can continue down to the hem. Slash, and fill in with tissue. I usually have to add 1cm as I saw from tissue-fitting, but start conservatively and add just a smidgeon. The extra width along the back shoulder line can be eased in, or scooch it to the right position and sew a little shoulder dart, which will show the world you have a nicely fitted jacket! The width you add will give you more room throughout the body and hip, which you can keep or pin out when you’re finishing. HTH!



Tina says:

I have the exact same problem, which I am working to fix.

Take a good look at your body, you may be suprised. I have a broad back and narrow shoulders. So, the fix that I have that has helped a lot (but still needs work, mainly in the sleeve cap) is that I cut my usualy 14 everywhere, except in the shoulders, which I cut a size 12. I raise the arm hole by 1/4 inch. Then I sew the sleeve with a 1/2 SA (assuming the pattern calls for 5/8 SAs) This has helped me a lot, and it’s really not a lot of extra work — just adding an extra 1/4 inch to the raised arm hole. If you trace your patterns, you would just do that automatically anyway, so no extra work.

Now, because if the adjustments to the arm hole (remember, i’m cutting a 14 sleeve) i’m having some sleeve cap issues, but at least I can finally move my arms!



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